I just finished my 47% low, 26%rev and 12% high gear reduction install with all new sandkraft bearings and the SDI transmission plate. I purchased the gears from rzrworks and he was very quick to answer any questions. I have a 2017 xp1k with 32crawler xg tires (12% over stock). Everything went smooth following the instructions from rzrworks. Installing new bears was simple with a hot plate. I froze my half my shafts and not the other half. Once heated a little all bears dropped right on. I did have to use a press to remove 1 bearing. The only part I didnt like was setting gear lash on the snorkel gears since I changed the bearings. I did it 3 times to make sure it was as the service manual stated.
Now for the SDI plate install: my transmission mounting block was not threaded for the 2 small bolts and had to be drilled out to even start the tap. I drilled the holes 1 size smaller than the tap called for to have a little deeper threads. In SDIs video they talk about torque specs and pulling threads. I pulled one thread at 30ftlbs of torque. Luckily it was a through hole on the clutch side. I drilled out the threads and put a 3/8s grade 8 bolt with a locking nut and washer on the back. I didnt want to pull everything back apart to fix and I dont have a helicoil kit. Although I think it might take an extended tap to reach all the way in. All the threads on the clutch side felt a little spongy to me. The bolts that come with the plate are shorter than the factory which in my mind doesnt help. If I were to do it again I would order 2- 4.5 10x1.25 bolts and extend the threads on the bolts as needed to not bottom out. The aluminum cast block is soft and the more threads you can grab the better. The other side torqued fine.
I used a rented SDI alignment tool to set the clutch alignment, pretty easy to do.
I also installed a Hunterworks thick belt and want to say thanks to Todd for answering a couple of clutch questions, even though I have an SLP clutch. ( bought the plate from him also)
I also finally greased my wheel bearings while I was waiting for tranny fluid to be delivered.
Short test run (10 degrees out):
Low appears to crawl at the touch of the pedal, just like my friends R&T edition and looks to top out about 25 instead of 45. At Moab last year, low required to much pedal play and was difficult to keep a smooth motion going, feels much better now. High felt smoother with less pedal needed to start moving. I didnt romp on the new belt. I made a couple changes to my clutch, but need a warmer day to test out.
So far Im super excited to get it on the trails and test it!
Thanks again to the forum members that have supplied enormous amounts of information and:
Sandkraft
Rzrworks
Hunterworks
Shane
Elizabeth,CO
USMC Retired
2017 XP 1000
2016 900S
Now for the SDI plate install: my transmission mounting block was not threaded for the 2 small bolts and had to be drilled out to even start the tap. I drilled the holes 1 size smaller than the tap called for to have a little deeper threads. In SDIs video they talk about torque specs and pulling threads. I pulled one thread at 30ftlbs of torque. Luckily it was a through hole on the clutch side. I drilled out the threads and put a 3/8s grade 8 bolt with a locking nut and washer on the back. I didnt want to pull everything back apart to fix and I dont have a helicoil kit. Although I think it might take an extended tap to reach all the way in. All the threads on the clutch side felt a little spongy to me. The bolts that come with the plate are shorter than the factory which in my mind doesnt help. If I were to do it again I would order 2- 4.5 10x1.25 bolts and extend the threads on the bolts as needed to not bottom out. The aluminum cast block is soft and the more threads you can grab the better. The other side torqued fine.
I used a rented SDI alignment tool to set the clutch alignment, pretty easy to do.
I also installed a Hunterworks thick belt and want to say thanks to Todd for answering a couple of clutch questions, even though I have an SLP clutch. ( bought the plate from him also)
I also finally greased my wheel bearings while I was waiting for tranny fluid to be delivered.
Short test run (10 degrees out):
Low appears to crawl at the touch of the pedal, just like my friends R&T edition and looks to top out about 25 instead of 45. At Moab last year, low required to much pedal play and was difficult to keep a smooth motion going, feels much better now. High felt smoother with less pedal needed to start moving. I didnt romp on the new belt. I made a couple changes to my clutch, but need a warmer day to test out.
So far Im super excited to get it on the trails and test it!
Thanks again to the forum members that have supplied enormous amounts of information and:
Sandkraft
Rzrworks
Hunterworks
Shane
Elizabeth,CO
USMC Retired
2017 XP 1000
2016 900S
Found a blown up 2016 XP4 seater for great deal so Dad picked it up.
Tore engine apart and found dusted and valves really tight and needing adjustment, so decided to remove whole engine for inspection and that way I could go through everything.
Got everything hot tanked and ready to assemble.
Got head all cleaned up and ready to assemble.
Got bottom end all back together, just used all Polaris parts for rebuild.
Got some new buckets and got valves all adjusted, ready to install head.
Got engine ready to go back in car. Went ahead and installed and aligned trans and engine using SDI alignment tool to ensure everything is straight.
Toady got to go on its maiden voyage and break engine in while having some fun!
